Skin
Throw Out Your Tinted Moisturizer!
09 • 01 • 2014
Let’s talk about SPF for a second, and I don’t mean the SPF number, or the thick sunscreen you use at the beach. We need to discuss the type of sun protection that is found in daily moisturizers, tinted moisturizers and trendy BB creams. Not to be alarmist, but the bottom line is that you need to throw out your tinted moisturizer or SPF day lotion if it does not contain zinc oxide. I learned something this weekend about sunscreen that rocked my world, so please read my picks for the best moisturizer with zinc oxide, or else you may unknowingly give yourself brown sunspots and UV damage.
Even though I’m a fair-skinned beauty blogger, preoccupied with skincare and have devoted myself to sunscreen from a young age, it turns out I’ve been using the wrong type of daily sun protection. There are two types of sunscreens: physical blockers and chemical blockers. Chemical blockers have names like Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate, Oxybenzone, and brand names like “Helioplex” (for Neutrogena products), “Hexiplex” or “Mexoryl” (for Loreal products), Aveeno’s “Active Photobarrier Complex” or “Cell-OX Shield” (for La Roche-Posay). The vast majority of drugstore sunscreens, face lotions with SPF, or tinted moisturizers/BB creams all use these chemical blockers. Seriously, go look at the back of your SPF face lotion or tinted moisturizer right now.
Chemical blockers work by absorbing rays and preventing them from penetrating your skin. Sounds great, but new studies are showing that chemicals like Oxybenzone (which is in 60% of sunscreens) might disrupt normal hormone function or be carcinogenic. There’s not yet enough evidence to declare these chemicals unsafe, and my point here is not to go on some organic, hippy-dippy soapbox about the dangers of chemicals. Putting aside the potential toxicity, here’s the other big problem: chemical blockers break down in sunlight and become ineffective after a couple of hours of sun exposure. That’s fine if you are at the beach and constantly reapplying your sunscreen, but what about ultra-sheer SPF face lotions and tinted moisturizers that are SPECIFICALLY marketed and designed to go underneath your other makeup? The reality: two hours after you apply that sucker, your sun protection is gone, and since you put all your concealer, powder, blush, etc. over it, I guarantee you are not reapplying your tinted moisturizer on top. Or at least I’m not, because that would obviously look cakey.
So everyday when I dutifully apply my Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Liquid Sunscreen (SPF 70), my new Loreal Silky Sheer BB Face Lotion (SPF 50+), or my Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer (SPF 20), that all contain chemical blockers, my poor skin is completely unprotected after a couple of hours. But that doesn’t have to be the case if you use a physical blocker! Your daytime moisturizer or tinted moisturizer should have a physical blocker, and more specifically, it needs to contain zinc oxide. A physical blocker (like titanium dioxide or zinc oxide) sits on top of your skin and protects from damaging rays by reflecting or scattering light away from skin, much like a mirror or aluminum foil. Zinc oxide is better than titanium dioxide because of zinc oxide’s ability to block both deeply-penetrating UVA rays and shorter-wave UVB rays (they call that “broad spectrum” protection). In fact, zinc oxide is the only sun filtering agent (physical or chemical) that can provide such broad spectrum protection.
Older zinc and titanium based sunscreens fell out of favor (remember Zinka?) because they had a large particle size that produced an opaque white look. Now modern physical blocker sunscreens use microfine nanoparticles that are transparent. There is some emerging concern that reducing the size of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide to nanoparticles allows them to penetrate skin in a harmful way, but so far the literature around the world shows micronized zinc oxide to be safe. But the safest course of action, especially for your kids, would be to use a non-nanoparticle zinc oxide sunscreen [the kind that will give them the white face]. Overall edge? Zinc oxide.
Unfortunately my misunderstanding about the different types of sunscreen has damaged my skin, and it shows. Even though my mom religiously applied sunscreen to my face as a kid, and I have never gotten a sunburn on my face, this Visia imaging device (that I did at Persona Med Spa), shows that I rank in the bottom 30% of women with similar skin tone and age in terms of my UV damage. Check out the sunspots lurking under the surface of my skin (some of which have started to peek out now that I am 34):
I’m annoyed and feel misled– in fact, at one point last year I blogged about how my Neutrogena Ultra Sheer liquid moisturizer was a drugstore dupe for the more expensive SkinCeuticals Physical Fusion UV Defense SPF 50. I’m sorry for the misinformation! Now I understand that the SkinCeuticals contains physical blockers, and so it continues to work during the day under my makeup, when the protection from my Neutrogena has completely vanished.
Below I’ve compiled a list of the daily moisturizers and BB creams/tinted moisturizers that contain zinc oxide. Frequently you will find the physical blockers in products that are marketed as “mineral” or “natural” (like a Burt’s Bees-type product). Here are links below to my picks for moisturizer with zinc oxide:
FANCY $$$ MOISTURIZERS:
Elta MD UV Physical Broad Spectrum SPF 41 (Zinc Oxide 9.0%, Titanium Dioxide 7.0%)
Josie Maran Argan Daily Moisturizer SPF 47 (Zinc Oxide 6.4%, Titanium Dioxide 5.1%)– the Josie Maran has no nanoparticles; i.e. no danger of the zinc oxide penetrating your skin.
SkinMedica TNS Ultimate Daily Moisturizer SPF 20 (Zinc Oxide 5.3%)
La Roche-Posay Anthelios SPF 50 Ultra Light Mineral Sunscreen Fluid (Zinc Oxide 5%, Titanium Dioxide 6%)
SkinCeuticals Physical Fusion UV Defense SPF 50 (Zinc Oxide 5%, Titanium Dioxide 6%)
COOLA Face SPF 30 Mineral Matte Tint (Zinc Oxide 3%, Titanium Dioxide 6.24%)– no nanoparticles in this one either.
DRUGSTORE MOISTURIZERS:
Eucerin Daily Protection SPF 30 Face Lotion (Zinc Oxide 4.85%, Titanium Dioxide 2.38%)– my husband uses this, and I think it leaves skin a tad white unless you really work hard at blending it in.
Yes to Grapefruit Correct & Repair Even Skin Moisturizer SPF 15 (Zinc Oxide 3.3%, Titanium Dioxide 2.9%)
Burt’s Bees Radiance SPF 7 Day Lotion (Zinc Oxide 3%, Titanium Dioxide 2.55%)
BB CREAMS/ FOUNDATIONS:
Bare Minerals Original Foundation SPF 15 (Zinc Oxide 21%, Titanium Dioxide 12.6%). The highest concentration of physical blockers, but I think this powder foundation looks a little dry on my skin. Also, FYI, there are some studies in other countries showing that the powder form of titanium dioxide might be dangerous because it can be inhaled. Every type of sunscreen seems to have its own pitfalls; you just can’t win with this stuff!
Philosophy Hope in a Jar A to Z Cream SPF 20 Perfecting BB Cream (Zinc Oxide 5%, Titanium Dioxide 5%)
Tarte Amazonian Clay BB Tinted Moisturizer (Zinc Oxide 5%, Titanium Dioxide 5%)
Cover FX CC Cream Time Release Tinted Treatment SPF 30 (Zinc Oxide 5%, Titanium Dioxide 10%)
Stila Sheer Color Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20 (Zinc Oxide 5%, Titanium Dioxide 5%)
Physician’s Formula Super CC+ Correct+Conceal+Cover Cream SPF 30 (Zinc Oxide 2.9%, Titanium Dioxide 6%)
So here’s my plan of action: I’m using the Elta MD for sun protection going forward since it has the highest concentration of Zinc Oxide, and I can continue to use my normal foundation on top. If you are concerned about the nanoparticles research, go for the Josie Maran. Then I’m also going to book an IPL/Photofacial on the BeautyNow app to eradicate my existing brown spots.
Remember, even though Summer is over, it is still essential to use an SPF under your makeup on an everyday, non-poolside basis.
xoxo,
@beautynowapp
Uhm…don’t use those blockers (zinc OR titanium dioxide). Check out this article to start:
http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/2007/08/25/hundreds-of-personal-care-products-contain-poorly-studied-nano-materials/
I also just read that in conducting studies with goldfish and pig skin, exposure to titanium dioxide goes into the blood and disrupts genetic information. I’d err on the side of caution and either stay out of the sun at its peak UV hours.
Very interesting, Mia! Thanks for sharing the article. I think the problem is not with the zinc or titanium dioxide themselves; it is the micronized, “nano particle” forms of zinc or titanium– the delivery system, so to speak, that might be causing problems. There are some sunscreens that use non-micronized versions of those physical blockers, the problem is they tend to look whitish on the skin. I feel like there is no good solution! Ugh.
Very interesting, Mia! Thanks for sharing the article. I think the problem is not with the zinc or titanium dioxide themselves; it is the micronized, “nano particle” forms of zinc or titanium– the delivery system, so to speak, that might be causing problems. There are some sunscreens that use non-micronized versions of those physical blockers, the problem is they tend to look whitish on the skin. I feel like there is no good solution! Ugh.
Curious on your opinion about Mexory which is found in LRP’s Anthelios SX. Supposedly it is one of the better SS’s available in the U.S with a PPD of 15… is it still inferior to physical ss? I generally use Anthelios SX liberally applied underneath any tinted moisturizer I may use….
http://www.bestvitcserum.com/a-look-at-the-best-tinted-moisturizers/
I think the physical is still better because it doesn’t stop working after a couple hours of sun exposure. But I don’t have specific knowledge about Mexory– I’d ask your dermatologist. Sorry I’m not more helpful! Thanks for commenting, Jackie!
Do you have any suggestions for daily body lotion with SPF? I want to have sun protection daily in my lotion, but have been finding it so difficult to track down good physical sunblock. They are either chemically composed or only marketed for facial use (so small and $$$).
@rachel that is a very good question. I use Elta MD Sport Lotion on my forearms and chest if I’m going to be outside. It’s not marketing as a moisturizer/lotion, but I don’t really find that I need additional moisture with it. They have a 7 oz. size available on Amazon here: http://rstyle.me/n/bnu8ei5uz6
Hope that helps and thanks for reading! xoxo @beautynowapp
I came across this great list – with some research links to verify the article- about the natural SPF values of natural oils. Very interesting read.. http://arganoildirect.com/the-truth-about-red-rasberry-seed-oil-spf-values-for-oils
Hello BeautyNowApp,
Interesting and informative article, must read this post once.
Thanks & Best Regards
Best UK Women Skin Care Products Online – BeSafe Team
Thanks for reading!
I would have to recommend 3rd Rock Sunblock. Too small of a brand/company to be noticed by most (its a best kept secret), but definitely worth it seeing as all of the ingredients are food grade, so no worries about carcinogens, and not water or oil based, so no worries about water or sweat making it less effective.
Thanks for reading and commenting, Gaby! I have not heard of that brand but will have to check it out. xo Kathleen
Yup! I have been saying this for years on “Real Reviews” on FB!!! Sunscreen is NOT face creams: gone in , 2 hours. Use a hat. Stay in the shade. Use a sun umbrella… and REAL sunscreen.
(ps. no worries about cancer causing ingredients though- science has disproved that, see Sci Babe on FB for a in depth article.)
Thank you for the great article , I start to use zinc oxide sunscreen about a year ago from my dermatologist suggestion and it works great for me , I throw away all other stuff ( Neutrogena …) and only use Image skincare tinted moisturizer with 6% zinc oxide , it’s a little dark for my skin so I mixed with a Shiseido Sun cream has Zinc oxide 19.3% , titanium dioxide 17%. Since then I don’t have sun burn like before when I go in the sun.
Thank you for sharing the post. http://www.sofiyacare.com/about.html
[…] Best Moisturizer With Zinc Oxide– BeautyNow Blog – Discussing my picks for the best daily moisturizer with zinc oxide- you might be unknowingly giving yourself brown sunspots and UV damage! […]
I have a question.. I recently bought the Skinceuticals Physical Fusion you mentioned and I’m illiterate when it comes to this stuff. Is this product considered a moisturizer? In other words.. Can or should it be used as a face moisturizer in my beauty regiment? I just become a makeup addict and need a good moisturizer to put on after I cleanse and before I prime but this product doesn’t say it’s a moisturizer so I’m confused lol Probably a dumb question but oh well because I need to know. Thanks
I would also suggest that zinc oxide does break down in direct sunlight and not the best for water ( unless waterproof. I am in medicine and we studied this. Chemical sunscreens do work just as good as zinc oxide, in a study at our school, most people do not apply right. That is the main issue. Zinc oxide in order to have maximum effect must be over 15% int he ingredient list. Lost of people who use chemical sunscreens have shown no sun damage because they applied the right amount, shot glass for entire body and teaspoon for face. Every sunscreen needs to be reapplied if sweating, or going out for long hours. That being said sunscreen NO matter what kind will not block 100% of suns rays. You still need to avoid long exposure, this means not going out during high UVA days between 10am-3pm ( if you have to seek shade and do not stay outdoors long) Makeup can sometimes cause a little bit of the SPF to go under, but not much. SPF is tested on not makeup face. Many zinc Oxide sunscreens can cause damage if person is not applying right, or sweats a lot. Also remember to wear a hat and glasses. Most sun damage from sunscreen is error on application than product itself.
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I am a huge fan of zinc oxide but you really should use a sunblock with at least 20% zinc oxide. The best I have found is Juice beauty CC cream, it’s a tinted moisturizer that goes on smoothly and looks natural. I use it as my foundation! I have tried every tinted moisturizer with 20% zinc oxide I can find and this is my fav. Also , SuperGoop has a 20% zinc oxide powder that is colorless/translucent and Bare Minerals powder foundation also meets the 20% zinc mark.
I don’t want to use foundation at all. I just want a good tinted sunscreen or tinted moisturizer. I want to get completely away from foundations
Chanel’s UV Essentiel (their spelling, not mine) also contains titanium dioxide that also goes on like a premier cosmetic with no white cast. I use this as my “primer” to my Bobbi Brown tinted moisturizer.